New for 2021: LCSHs for fashion, textile & costume librarians

Art Libraries Society of North America colleague and assistant director of the New York Public Library‘s Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints, and Photographs Deirdre Donohue sends out monthly topical additions related to Art & Architecture Library of Congress Subject Headings. Here is a 2021 roundup of those that may be of interest to fashion, textile and costume librarians.

150 Bead embroidery–Patterns
150 Carnival beads [May Subd Geog]
150 Clothing and dress–Indonesia
150 Craftivism [May Subd Geog]
150 Costume–China–History–Song-Yuan dynasties, 960-1368
150 Decoration and ornament, Mogul Empire [May Subd Geog]
150 Decoration and ornament, Rajput [May Subd Geog] 
150 Dye houses [May Subd Geog]
150 Embroidery, Uzbek [May Subd Geog]
150 Ethnic costume [May Subd Geog]    
150 Fashion and globalization [May Subd Geog]
150 Military decorations–Romania
150 Moctezuma’s headdress
150 Ordinul “Mihai Viteazul”
150 Pearl necklaces [May Subd Geog]
150 Ribbon skirts [May Subd Geog]
150 Tapestry, Mogul Empire [May Subd Geog]
150 Tepehua textile fabrics [May Subd Geog]
150 Textile fabrics, Simalungun [May Subd Geog]

Featured image: Flower Power, a bead-embroidered shirt, part of the Free Belarus collection designed by Nastya Vasjuchenkа for her brand Kanva, Sept. 2020. 


Call for Media Reviewers for the Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion journal

The Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion journal is looking for media reviewers for the 2022 and 2023 issues. The review will be focused on men’s fashion and could be of any form of media including an upcoming book, exhibit, or movie.

The reviews are usually between 2,000 and 3,000 words, but you can use more (or less) words if that fits you better. Please find the Intellect Style Guide linked here. Should you have further questions or would like to see past media review examples, please let me know. I can be reached via email (lamorean@newschool.edu). Thank you in advance!

Nicole LaMoreaux

Assistant Director, Research & Instructional Services

The New School Media Review Editor, Critical Studies of Men’s Fashion

Two new resources

Two new resources caught my eye this week while conducting research on hanbok 한복 / 조선옷 or traditional Korean clothing: the Asian Fashion Archive and The Fashion and Race Database, both of which launched recently in 2020.

The Asian Fashion Archive is a digital project that highlights Asian fashion, culture, and history, and was developed by fashion educator and historian Faith Cooper in 2020 in response to anti-Asian racism she witnessed and experienced that year. According to the website, Cooper was “frustrated with the lack of Asian representation and negative portrayals of Asian people in Western media and fashion [and created the resource] to inspire, empower, and educate others.”

The website allows users to searching regionally and is divided into four main sections: Asian Americans, East Asia, South Asia and Southeast Asia, which are then subdivided nationally. There are a variety of resources including video clips, museums and exhibitions, podcasts, and publications, divided geographically. These curated collections include a mix of academic, museum and popular fashion media sources. There is a separate section of educational resources that include activity and teaching guides, as well as kid-friendly audiovisual resources.

The Fashion and Race Database was founded by fashion educator Kim Jenkins with the goal to “amplify the voices of those who have been racialized (and thus marginalized) in fashion, illuminate under-examined histories and address racism throughout the fashion system,” according to the website. While teaching at Parsons, Jenkins noticed that there was no single resource that explored the intersection of fashion and race–so she developed her own, gathering from a variety of sources.

The database is divided into five sections: Objects that matter, Profiles, The Library, Essays and News, and Community.

Screenshot / The Fashion and Race Database

Objects that matter focus on fashion objects, for example hanbok. Each entry features a selection of visual representations, a description, object details such as construction materials and usage, modern appropriation and influence, a bibliography and links for more information. Each entry is contributed by a scholar specialising in the subject matter.

Profiles (still a work in progress) are entries on leaders and changemakers, fashion designers, style icons and tastemakers, and historical persons.

The library contains topical and geographical reading lists, a bookshelf with WorldCat and publisher links, films and documentaries, recordings of lectures and panels, links to online exhibitions and archives, scholarly and popular articles, and podcasts. An issue I have with the library is that it heavily relies on browsing, as there are no delimiters or subcategories to choose from. However there is a search box for known item and site-wide general searching.

While the website heading says Essays and News, clicking on it will bring you to Essays and Opinion, a selection of blogs by site contributors.

Community is a mix of directories of persons, a calendar of events and opportunities such as job postings and calls for papers.


These two new resources, created by fashion educators for critical fashion studies, and to amplify diverse views and styles will certainly be beneficial for librarians, educators and students of fashion, textiles and costume studies. I think the mix of resources, from academic papers to Vogue articles to videos and podcasts–everyone will certainly find a mode à la mode to meet their informational needs.

Header image: Lee Kyung Sun (2016) Traditional Women’s Clothing of the 18th Century Joseon Dynasty. From the collection of Arumjigi Culture Keepers Foundation. https://g.co/arts/UhULJwMxhPEYxWoZA

Fashioning the Framework

The Fall 2021 Art Documentation carries an article by Laura B. Thompson, a cataloger and music librarian at Central Michigan University on the topic of information literacy for Fashion Studies.

Abstract: The discipline of fashion studies has recently developed as a subject of critical academic study. As a result, information literacy instruction for these programs has become increasingly important. The ACRL Framework for Information Literacy for Higher Education provides general guidance for this instruction but, as with other performance, art, or design-oriented disciplines, it requires considerable contextualization. For fashion studies, discussions about disciplinary context have been limited, especially as they concern the ACRL Framework. This article provides a brief overview of the Framework and discusses issues of interdisciplinarity in fashion studies and applications of each frame from design and practice-based perspectives.

Thompson, Laura B. “Fashioning the framework: Information literacy for Fashion Studies.” Art Documentation 40, no. 2 (2021): 304-315. https://doi.org/10.1086/716735

Header image: Threads Fashion Show (Central Michigan State University 2019)

Marine Corps uniforms in the John H. Glenn Archives at The Ohio State University

Col. John Glenn (U.S. Marine Corps photo)

November 10th is birthday of the U.S. Marine Corps, celebrating that day in 1775 when the organisation was established by the Second Continental Congress. In honor of their service, I thought I would highlight an interesting collection of Marine Corps uniforms held by The Ohio State University Libraries.

The John H. Glenn Archives, part of the Ohio Public Policy Archives held at The Ohio State University contains papers and memorabilia donated by the former U.S. senator, NASA astronaut and U.S. Marine Corps aviator. According to the online finding aid, the collection contains approximately 2,000 cubic feet of materials, divided into four groups: Senate papers, non-Senate papers, audiovisual resources and artifacts.

Among the 1,968 artifacts include 41 military uniforms components. Glenn trained as a naval aviator in 1942 and transferred to the U.S. Marine Corps a year later. He served as a fighter pilot in World War II and the Korean War before applying to be a test pilot, a position that ultimately led to a career with NASA. More information about Glenn’s military career can be found here.

In their 2010 paper “Textile History and the Military,” historians Kjeld Galster and Marie-Louise Nosch note that textiles play an important part in military service and that uniforms are likely what people think about when they think about textiles and the armed forces. The Glenn Archive contain a variety of his different military uniforms, including utility, dress and formal options:

The Marine Corps notes that there is history and purpose in every symbol, include their uniforms, and that those uniforms that Marines wear connect them to their history. More information can be found on contemporary Marine Corps uniforms here.

The classic text covering the history of the Marine Corp uniform, Uniforms of the American Marines, 1775 to 1829 written by Edwin North McClellan is available as an electronic resource online, accessible via the Federal Depository Library Program Electronic Collection here.

The Department of Defence has a interesting virtual exhibit Common Threads: Marine Corps that show how Marine Corps uniforms have evolved over time and is available here.

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